How to Make Moonshine:
A Distillers Guide For Corn Moonshine
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In this post, we are going to walk you through how to make your own moonshine from mixing your corn mash recipe through jarring. All of the supplies you’ll need can be found in our shop. Learning to make moonshine is both art and science. The best skill to focus on from the beginning is attention to detail. If rye whiskey or tequila is more your speed, check out our guides on how to make a rye whiskey and how to make tequila. Check out our Mile Hi Distilling moonshine still kits.
Let’s jump in.
***Before we get started. It is illegal to distill spirits at home. This guide is meant as a hypothetical walk-through. Mile Hi Distilling doesn’t condone any illegal or illicit behavior and cannot be held responsible for the actions taken by any individuals not acting within the parameters of the law.***
Browse By Step. Click on any of these links to jump to the step you want to see:
Getting Started: Picking Your Type of Moonshine Mash
How to Make Moonshine: Corn Mash Recipe
Fermenting Your Mash
Distilling
Collecting Your Distillate
Conclusion
Getting Started: Picking Your Type of Moonshine Mash
There are several types of mash we can choose from when getting ready to produce a batch of moonshine. For the purists, a corn whiskey mash is the route to a true-to-history, smooth, full-flavor moonshine.
Clever corn farmers caught on to the fact that they could distill their own crop to increase profits. This realization led to the creation of our beloved hooch.
Next, is the “Sugar Shine” approach that is gaining in popularity, especially amongst beginners. By eliminating the corn flavor tones, creative distillers can create anything from apple pie to chocolate-flavored moonshine. This has led to the rise of flavored moonshine that is becoming increasingly popular.
Finally, there is the hybrid approach where we augment our corn mash with added sugar. This can double your production of mash with the same amount of corn. A hybrid mash tends to be more convenient and economical while still achieving more traditional flavor profiles.
For this guide, we’ll walk you through the traditional Corn Whiskey Mash. However, feel free to use one of the other methods using guides you find elsewhere in its place. For a guide on making apple pie moonshine, check out our apple pie moonshine recipe.
How to Make Moonshine: Corn Mash Recipe
Image: Shannon Tompkins/Flickr
Base Moonshine Ingredients and Materials:
- 5 Gallons of Water
- 8.5 Pounds of Flaked Corn Maize
- 1.5 Pounds of Crushed Malted Barley
- Yeast
- Mash Pot
- Fermentation Bucket
- Heat Source
- Thermometer
- Long Spoon
Procedure:
- Place your mash pot on its heat source and pour in 5 gallons of water.
- Heat water to 165 °F.
- Turn off heat source when you reach 165 °F and immediately stir in 8.5 pounds of Flaked Corn Maize.
- Stir mixture continuously for 7 minutes.
- Check temperature and stir mixture for 30 seconds every 5 minutes until the temperature cools to 152 °F.
- When the mixture has cooled to 152 °F, stir in 1.5 pounds of Crushed Malted Barley.
- Check temperature and stir for 30 seconds every 20 minutes until the mixture has cooled to 70 °F. This process takes several hours on its own, but can be sped up significantly with the use of an immersion cooler.
- When the mixture has cooled to 70 °F, add yeast.
- Aerate the mixture by dumping it back and forth between two separate containers for 5 minutes.
- Pour the mixture into your fermentation bucket. We carry complete kits for these as well as the materials to produce your own. It is important to have the bucket, cap, and air-lock. A spigot also makes for easier pouring.
George Duncan over at Barley and Hops Brewing also has a great video on How To Make a Great Moonshine Mash. Check it out below!
Fermenting Your Mash
Materials:
- Hydrometer
- pH Meter (Advanced)
- Siphon
- Cheese Cloth
- Citric Acid
Fermentation
Store the mash to ferment for 1-2 weeks at room temperature. Temperature is important if it gets too cold the fermentation can stop because the yeast goes dormant.
For best results, use a hydrometer and check specific gravity at the start of fermentation and when fermentation is complete to ensure that all sugars have been used. This will tell you how much ABV ( alcohol by volume ) your fermentation produced. Be sure to write down the specific gravity reading at the start of fermentation and at the end of fermentation. Use formula to tell you how much alcohol was produced. See how to use hydrometer video
Straining
Siphon mash water out of the mixture, taking care to leave behind all solid material and sediment, and into a container to adjust pH. Straining your mash water through a cheesecloth is recommended at this step. Leaving solid material in your mash water can cause headaches you’d rather avoid.
(Advanced) Some distillers will add 2tsp of gypsum to their mash water at this point. They then test the pH of their mash water. The ideal pH is 5.8 to 6.0. Use citric acid to bring the pH down and calcium carbonate to bring it up.
How To Make Moonshine: Distilling
Materials
- Moonshine Still
- Fermented and Strained Mash Water
- Cleaning Products
- Column Packing
Great job! You’ve completed the heavy lifting of producing mash water for your moonshine! Now it’s time to distill and separate all of that alcohol content into a purified form. Like making mash, distilling is as much an art as it is a science.
The best way to become a good distiller is to practice. We recommend taking notes throughout the process so you can become better with each run. If you’re in need of equipment or supplies we’ve got you covered.
We carry everything from the traditional copper still, to stainless reflux units, to the new Grainfather Brewing System. We also carry quality supplies from high quality grains to a replacement carbon filter.
Prepping Your Still
Keeping up on prep-work for your still is mission critical. Even if you cleaned your still after your last run and let it sit for a while, it is still recommended to clean it before transferring your mash water. This is especially the case on copper stills that are showing a salt buildup.
If you add packing to your column, this is the time. Pack your column with the amount of copper packing that is appropriate for your setup.
If your setup has a condenser, hook up your water input and output.
Finally, it’s time to add your mash water to the still. Again, you can use a cheesecloth or auto-siphon to transfer the mash water into your still without including solid material.
The name of the game here is reducing the sediment in your mash water to as close to zero as possible.
Running Your Still
Now for the fun part! Distillation is an incredible process. If you’re not familiar with the science, here’s the quick and dirty. Distillation is the process of separating different chemicals by taking advantage of different evaporation temperatures between the chemicals.
This process is not creating alcohol, it is separating it from all of the other substances in your mash water. You created all of the alcohol during fermentation (well, the yeast did).
Slowly bring your temperature up to 150 °F. Once you reach 150 °F, if your setup has a condenser turn on the condensing water.
Next, dial up your heat source to high until your still starts producing. Time your drips as they speed up until you reach 3 to 5 drips per second. Once you reach this rate, dial down your heat to maintain it (usually the “medium” setting).
How To Make Moonshine: Collecting Your Distillate
Congratulations, you went from researching How to Make Moonshine to making your own moonshine! As you’re producing your distillate, make sure you are dripping into a glass container. Never use plastic containers as this can lace your product with BPA among causing other issues.
Collecting Foreshots
The first approximately 5% of your production will be the foreshots. These contain the earliest-evaporating alcohols in your mash water and should never be ingested.
Foreshots can contain methanol and should never ever be consumed. Methanol can make you blind among causing other problems. Collect the foreshots in their own container and throw them out.
Collecting Heads
The next approximately 30% of your production are considered the heads. The heads also contain volatile alcohols like the foreshots. However, rather than causing blindness, the effects are less extreme – like one hell of a hangover.
The heads will have a distinct “solvent” smell from alcohols like acetone that are present. Like the foreshots, collect your heads in their own containers and throw them out.
Collecting Hearts
This is the good stuff, mostly ethanol. The hearts make up the next approximately 30% of your production. At this point you should start losing the harsh, solvent smell present during the heads. The flavor of corn mash moonshine should now be smooth and sweet.
This is the stage where skill and experience come most into play. Isolating your hearts well, while maximizing production of them is a bit of an art. Using science and senses, a good distiller will “shine” at this stage.
Collecting Tails
As you reach the end of the ethanol and move into the final stage of your production you hit the tails. The tails will be approximately the last 35% of your production. The tails will taste very different from the hearts.
You’ll notice a steep drop in sweetness, and even begin to see an oily top-layer on your product. The product will begin to feel slippery between your fingers. This is due to water, carbohydrates, and proteins present. You can set your tails aside for later distillation or toss them.
Conclusion
You made it, well done. We hope you made a knockout batch. Now all that is left is to thoroughly clean your entire setup. Allow to dry thoroughly and store in a cool, dry place.
When learning how to make moonshine, you are playing the part of both scientist and artist. This is a delicate dance that can take years to really cultivate. We recommend always keeping detailed notes on your moonshine production. Then, upon review, you can identify opportunities to improve in the future.
Thanks for visiting Mile Hi Distilling and don’t forget to check out our shop should you need any supplies or moonshine ingredients. You have now successfully learned how to make moonshine with a corn mash recipe!
If you enjoyed this guide on how to make moonshine, check out our other guides on how to make rum and how to make vodka.
Let us know what you thought of this guide by leaving a comment or a star rating below.[kkstarratings]
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I’m trying a double mash in hopes of a higher sugar bank. My reasoning is if all sugar doesn’t convert, ferment again after running 1st batch. 8 gal run. Any suggestions?
Yeah, I think it’s a good idea if you have the ingredients handy. That’s a great way to reduce the lag time in between batches. The only suggestion I have for you is to make sure you take starting gravity and final gravity readings with your hydrometer and also make sure to keep the airlock full with water to the indicated line on the second batch so it doesn’t go bad. It usually takes months for a fermentation to turn to vinegar, though.
I cooked up 8.5lbs of corn to 5 gal water 2lbs of malted barley. Let cool down, strained and recooked with 5lbs of corn no baley. There was enough amylase in the previous to break down the second cook. Turned out very sweet and sticky. Had to adjust my ph and added yeast. So far so good. Just use caution when adding anything to the mash. If you make a yeast starter, bring the water you use to or near boiling to kill any harmful bacteria, cool,add sugar and yeast and introduce to the mash. Currently I don’t have a hydrometer and my ph meter needs calibration. Shooting off the hip with this one but I feel good about it. Nothing worse than having to toss a batch! Thanks for the advice though! Gotta order a ph cal kit. Would have save me from the stroke I almost had when my yeast wasn’t producing and I had no citric acid on hand to lower ph but did luckily have a few cherry tomatoes! Lol
Haha glad everything turned out well!
I’m trying a double mash in hopes of a higher sugar bank. My reasoning is if all sugar doesn’t convert, ferment again after running 1st batch. 8 gal run. Any suggestions?
Yeah, I think it’s a good idea if you have the ingredients handy. That’s a great way to reduce the lag time in between batches. The only suggestion I have for you is to make sure you take starting gravity and final gravity readings with your hydrometer and also make sure to keep the airlock full with water to the indicated line on the second batch so it doesn’t go bad. It usually takes months for a fermentation to turn to vinegar, though.
I cooked up 8.5lbs of corn to 5 gal water 2lbs of malted barley. Let cool down, strained and recooked with 5lbs of corn no baley. There was enough amylase in the previous to break down the second cook. Turned out very sweet and sticky. Had to adjust my ph and added yeast. So far so good. Just use caution when adding anything to the mash. If you make a yeast starter, bring the water you use to or near boiling to kill any harmful bacteria, cool,add sugar and yeast and introduce to the mash. Currently I don’t have a hydrometer and my ph meter needs calibration. Shooting off the hip with this one but I feel good about it. Nothing worse than having to toss a batch! Thanks for the advice though! Gotta order a ph cal kit. Would have save me from the stroke I almost had when my yeast wasn’t producing and I had no citric acid on hand to lower ph but did luckily have a few cherry tomatoes! Lol
Haha glad everything turned out well!
Very precise and descriptive explanations. Great lesson
I would also use distilled water to reduce the minerals in the water. You’ll have to add specific minerals to it but would reduce the buildup on the elements as Boo explained. Still not sure how those bits floated up with the alcohol steam as they would be weighted. Verify your pot still materials are stainless or pure copper for safety.
Very precise and descriptive explanations. Great lesson
I would also use distilled water to reduce the minerals in the water. You’ll have to add specific minerals to it but would reduce the buildup on the elements as Boo explained. Still not sure how those bits floated up with the alcohol steam as they would be weighted. Verify your pot still materials are stainless or pure copper for safety.
I am new to distillation, I have made wine before, I purchased a 20ltr pot still and distilled a batch of elderflower wine, it returned just over a litre at 27% ABV………..even though I cleaned my equipment I was getting black bits in the distillation, can anyone advise me on where I am going wrong, much appreciated……….. Gary
Hey, man. A little stumped on this one as well. Here’s a few things you can take a look at:
1. Have you ever had any mashes be scorched when they’re in the boiler? This could be residue from a burnt mash/wash and it would require an extensive cleaning solution to fully pull it all out. I recommend PBW cleaner and run for at least an hour in the still.
2. Are you using an internal heating element? Is your element going bad? They typically have a life cycle of around a few months. If a mash was scorched or the element is getting old, it’ll start to flake off little bits of burnt residue on the stainless element. Replacing the element should fix the issue.
Thanks
Boo
Mile Hi Distilling
I am new to distillation, I have made wine before, I purchased a 20ltr pot still and distilled a batch of elderflower wine, it returned just over a litre at 27% ABV………..even though I cleaned my equipment I was getting black bits in the distillation, can anyone advise me on where I am going wrong, much appreciated……….. Gary
Hey, man. A little stumped on this one as well. Here’s a few things you can take a look at:
1. Have you ever had any mashes be scorched when they’re in the boiler? This could be residue from a burnt mash/wash and it would require an extensive cleaning solution to fully pull it all out. I recommend PBW cleaner and run for at least an hour in the still.
2. Are you using an internal heating element? Is your element going bad? They typically have a life cycle of around a few months. If a mash was scorched or the element is getting old, it’ll start to flake off little bits of burnt residue on the stainless element. Replacing the element should fix the issue.
Thanks
Boo
Mile Hi Distilling
Im getting black bits in my distillate even though have cleaned the still thoroughly, I’m using a pot still with condenser, can anyone advise………..thanks
I’m having the same issue with my pot still even though I clean before and after use
Im getting black bits in my distillate even though have cleaned the still thoroughly, I’m using a pot still with condenser, can anyone advise………..thanks
I’m having the same issue with my pot still even though I clean before and after use
I know I’m asking a lot of questions, but I am a first timer, check my head again at roughly 60 ounces in my ABV is 0……any thoughts on what I did wrong? Also is there a good recourse so I’m not asking so much here just something I can use to reference?
That’s ok, man.
Are you testing the heads with a beer and wine hydrometer? A hydrometer with an ABV scale won’t measure alcohol. For that, you need an alcoholmeter.
I just emailed you a Distilling 101 Guide that we created to get you on the right track, but if you have more questions you’re always free to ask me here, email us at milehidistilling@yahoo.com, or call us at 303-987-3955
Thanks
Boo
Mile Hi Distilling
How would I go about distilling a second time? I know it increases the proof, but if I’m going to lose 2/3 of it…..
You’d need to make multiple batches. Run each of them once and then your combined yield should be enough to throw back in the still, fill the rest of the volume with water, and then re-distill
Thanks
Boo
Mile Hi Distilling
It turns out many of my questions answered themselves. No water in my relief valve led to almost no abv in first place. I’m starting out with an inexpensive stainless still and this one makes me question everything about my intelligence, I knew one of my small pots sat atop the lid and I put my cooling pot on there. I ended up having several leaks and leaving my thumper empty so my total yield was roughly 4.5 quarts out of a 3.5 gallon batch. The rest was lost to steam. I’ve done a simpler sugar yeast recipe this time which is fermenting much better. I plan to fill my thumper with either vodka or maybe a store bought shine even. I think I have my cooling problem solved but I of course have questions about that but will make them a separate question as all I e done here is tell my story and you don’t need to publish it. Just wanted you to know your help was well appreciated.
I think I forgot to mention I was asking those questions as I was ruining that batch. That’s why I didn’t implement your suggestions. Thank you
For my cooling problem I purchased a mini fridge and some copper tubing. 3/8×25’. Will the air in the mini cool the copper enough if the fridge is on high? Would I need to make a bowl or box to put ice in and run the copper thru it the fridge hopefully keeping the ice from melting? Or do I have a garage fridge and need to do a cooler full of ice so there’s really no air?
On that one, I’m not entirely sure, man. I’d think your fridge should have enough cooling power, but I can’t be 100%. A cooler full of ice is probably a little better since the still gets so hot and you end up going through a ton of ice/water.
Thanks
Boo
Mile Hi Distilling
That’s actually what I went with. Looking at the physics of it the water would pass thru the fridge too fast for air to cool it. Returned the fridge for a freezer just for ice. Cost $40 just for ice this batch. Got less than 3 quarts on 3.5 gallons but I know I was being overly cautious. Used your sugar-yeast recipe and quite happy with result. Tested around 110 and decent taste. Hated pouring it out but one batch for tradition and good luck totally worth it
I’m brand new at this so I don’t have the experience to advise but I can tell you what I am using to keep the condenser cool………………. I bought a small pump used in a fish tank, I have a 40 litre bucket which I fill with 30 ltr of water, I submerge the pump to the bottom then hook up the tubes, inlet/outlet……………….I have 2ltr tubs of ice in my freezer and every hour or so I put 1 in the cooler bucket, I am only running a 5 gallon pot still and I have no problems keeping the condenser coil cool using this system………..good luck
I know I’m asking a lot of questions, but I am a first timer, check my head again at roughly 60 ounces in my ABV is 0……any thoughts on what I did wrong? Also is there a good recourse so I’m not asking so much here just something I can use to reference?
That’s ok, man.
Are you testing the heads with a beer and wine hydrometer? A hydrometer with an ABV scale won’t measure alcohol. For that, you need an alcoholmeter.
I just emailed you a Distilling 101 Guide that we created to get you on the right track, but if you have more questions you’re always free to ask me here, email us at milehidistilling@yahoo.com, or call us at 303-987-3955
Thanks
Boo
Mile Hi Distilling
How would I go about distilling a second time? I know it increases the proof, but if I’m going to lose 2/3 of it…..
You’d need to make multiple batches. Run each of them once and then your combined yield should be enough to throw back in the still, fill the rest of the volume with water, and then re-distill
Thanks
Boo
Mile Hi Distilling
It turns out many of my questions answered themselves. No water in my relief valve led to almost no abv in first place. I’m starting out with an inexpensive stainless still and this one makes me question everything about my intelligence, I knew one of my small pots sat atop the lid and I put my cooling pot on there. I ended up having several leaks and leaving my thumper empty so my total yield was roughly 4.5 quarts out of a 3.5 gallon batch. The rest was lost to steam. I’ve done a simpler sugar yeast recipe this time which is fermenting much better. I plan to fill my thumper with either vodka or maybe a store bought shine even. I think I have my cooling problem solved but I of course have questions about that but will make them a separate question as all I e done here is tell my story and you don’t need to publish it. Just wanted you to know your help was well appreciated.
I think I forgot to mention I was asking those questions as I was ruining that batch. That’s why I didn’t implement your suggestions. Thank you
For my cooling problem I purchased a mini fridge and some copper tubing. 3/8×25’. Will the air in the mini cool the copper enough if the fridge is on high? Would I need to make a bowl or box to put ice in and run the copper thru it the fridge hopefully keeping the ice from melting? Or do I have a garage fridge and need to do a cooler full of ice so there’s really no air?
On that one, I’m not entirely sure, man. I’d think your fridge should have enough cooling power, but I can’t be 100%. A cooler full of ice is probably a little better since the still gets so hot and you end up going through a ton of ice/water.
Thanks
Boo
Mile Hi Distilling
That’s actually what I went with. Looking at the physics of it the water would pass thru the fridge too fast for air to cool it. Returned the fridge for a freezer just for ice. Cost $40 just for ice this batch. Got less than 3 quarts on 3.5 gallons but I know I was being overly cautious. Used your sugar-yeast recipe and quite happy with result. Tested around 110 and decent taste. Hated pouring it out but one batch for tradition and good luck totally worth it
I’m brand new at this so I don’t have the experience to advise but I can tell you what I am using to keep the condenser cool………………. I bought a small pump used in a fish tank, I have a 40 litre bucket which I fill with 30 ltr of water, I submerge the pump to the bottom then hook up the tubes, inlet/outlet……………….I have 2ltr tubs of ice in my freezer and every hour or so I put 1 in the cooler bucket, I am only running a 5 gallon pot still and I have no problems keeping the condenser coil cool using this system………..good luck
Using propane for heat, but I am getting inconsistent flow. Is there something I can do or is that not a problem?
incosistent as in too slow of a drip? Too fast of a drip? Is the still puking?
A lot of the time, this means you’re not in equilibrium between your water and heat source. It’s hard to find that balance between the right amount of water flow on your run and the right amount of heat pumping into the still.
How hard are you running that propane stove? What are you using for a water source and how much water is going into the condensers?
Thanks
Boo
Mile Hi Distilling
Using propane for heat, but I am getting inconsistent flow. Is there something I can do or is that not a problem?
incosistent as in too slow of a drip? Too fast of a drip? Is the still puking?
A lot of the time, this means you’re not in equilibrium between your water and heat source. It’s hard to find that balance between the right amount of water flow on your run and the right amount of heat pumping into the still.
How hard are you running that propane stove? What are you using for a water source and how much water is going into the condensers?
Thanks
Boo
Mile Hi Distilling
Using new still with thumper for first time. Not flavoring so what do I put in it or leave empty?
Will testing heads for abv give accurate reading
I wouldn’t leave it empty ever. You can use something as simple as water or go buy a cheap bottle of vodka and throw that in there!
Give accurate readings on the proof of the heads or accurate readings if they’re heads or not? It’d give you accurate ABV/proof readings, but it would let you know whether the test sample is methanol or not.
Thanks
Boo
Mile Hi Distilling
Using new still with thumper for first time. Not flavoring so what do I put in it or leave empty?
Will testing heads for abv give accurate reading
I wouldn’t leave it empty ever. You can use something as simple as water or go buy a cheap bottle of vodka and throw that in there!
Give accurate readings on the proof of the heads or accurate readings if they’re heads or not? It’d give you accurate ABV/proof readings, but it would let you know whether the test sample is methanol or not.
Thanks
Boo
Mile Hi Distilling
I always see that you collect the foreshots and dispose of them. Then collect the heads and dispose of them. Is there a reason I need to seperate them if they’re both trash?
No, not necessarily. Some of the heads near the end of them can be thrown back in the still and distilled again to separate out the methanol and clean them up, so I think this is one reason people like collecting their heads and foreshots seperately.
Thanks
Boo
Mile Hi Distilling
I always see that you collect the foreshots and dispose of them. Then collect the heads and dispose of them. Is there a reason I need to seperate them if they’re both trash?
No, not necessarily. Some of the heads near the end of them can be thrown back in the still and distilled again to separate out the methanol and clean them up, so I think this is one reason people like collecting their heads and foreshots seperately.
Thanks
Boo
Mile Hi Distilling
“Next, dial up your heat source to high until your still starts producing. Time your drips as they speed up until you reach 3 to 5 drips per second. Once you reach this rate, dial down your heat to maintain it (usually the “medium” setting)”…. How long does this part take? It also doesn’t mention how long to keep the heat at medium. Minutes, hours, days? Just courious!
Hi, Cheryl.
That’s all definitely going to be a little situational. Different altitudes, what’s in your kettle, the ethanol to water ratio in the boiler etc. all play a part here. This should typically be around an 8 hour run. I would personally recommend to cook up slow and then keep it in medium as soon as you’re done with your heads.
Not related to your discussion but I’m hoping this has happened to someone else. I’m trying to make a shine to go commercial so I make several small batches at a time. Describing it to someone and he says ‘that’s kinda the same as making pruno. Like toilet hooch they make in prison. I couldn’t believe it
I’d like to think you’re making better stuff than they do in the toilet though! Haha
Thanks
Boo
Mile Hi Distilling
I like to think so but I haven’t had since I spent 3 nights in 96 so….
“Next, dial up your heat source to high until your still starts producing. Time your drips as they speed up until you reach 3 to 5 drips per second. Once you reach this rate, dial down your heat to maintain it (usually the “medium” setting)”…. How long does this part take? It also doesn’t mention how long to keep the heat at medium. Minutes, hours, days? Just courious!
Hi, Cheryl.
That’s all definitely going to be a little situational. Different altitudes, what’s in your kettle, the ethanol to water ratio in the boiler etc. all play a part here. This should typically be around an 8 hour run. I would personally recommend to cook up slow and then keep it in medium as soon as you’re done with your heads.
Not related to your discussion but I’m hoping this has happened to someone else. I’m trying to make a shine to go commercial so I make several small batches at a time. Describing it to someone and he says ‘that’s kinda the same as making pruno. Like toilet hooch they make in prison. I couldn’t believe it
I’d like to think you’re making better stuff than they do in the toilet though! Haha
Thanks
Boo
Mile Hi Distilling
I like to think so but I haven’t had since I spent 3 nights in 96 so….
Why was there no sugar mentioned in the recipe I just read? I thought sugar is what made the alcohol along with the yeast? Just curious as to why there was no sugar added. And when do you add sugar into your mash?
Why was there no sugar mentioned in the recipe I just read? I thought sugar is what made the alcohol along with the yeast? Just curious as to why there was no sugar added. And when do you add sugar into your mash?
How much yeast do I have to add?
It’s actually a pretty small amount. My Brewer’s yeast says 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon per gallon. I’m generous and toss in a tablespoon for a 5 gallon mash (a teaspoon is probably fine. If you are using wine yeast packets 1 packet is enough). Take your bucket and set it on a heating pad. That’ll keep your heat pretty even, and warm. I generally toss my yeast in around 90 degrees. Your yeast is reproducing at an astronomical rate, so you don’t need a quart jar full of dry yeast. If you don’t know if your yeast is good, start it in a quart jar with warm water and sugar. If nothing happens in an hour, your yeast is crap.
How much yeast do I have to add?
It’s actually a pretty small amount. My Brewer’s yeast says 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon per gallon. I’m generous and toss in a tablespoon for a 5 gallon mash (a teaspoon is probably fine. If you are using wine yeast packets 1 packet is enough). Take your bucket and set it on a heating pad. That’ll keep your heat pretty even, and warm. I generally toss my yeast in around 90 degrees. Your yeast is reproducing at an astronomical rate, so you don’t need a quart jar full of dry yeast. If you don’t know if your yeast is good, start it in a quart jar with warm water and sugar. If nothing happens in an hour, your yeast is crap.
I’ve made moonshine a few times. Did I miss something in this article?; I may have skipped but I read it 3 times. Where’s the sugar?;I know the grains have sugar in them but I’ve always addeds sugar. I have gotten very good sipoin whiskey and consistently get between 130 and Q50 proof.. but I’m puzzled about the absence of sugar here. Did I skip a line line? Also when you got to the part about letting it ferment for two weeks would have been a good time to plug turbo yeast. It cuts a few days off the tiime
I’ve made moonshine a few times. Did I miss something in this article?; I may have skipped but I read it 3 times. Where’s the sugar?;I know the grains have sugar in them but I’ve always addeds sugar. I have gotten very good sipoin whiskey and consistently get between 130 and Q50 proof.. but I’m puzzled about the absence of sugar here. Did I skip a line line? Also when you got to the part about letting it ferment for two weeks would have been a good time to plug turbo yeast. It cuts a few days off the tiime
Very informative thanks
Very informative thanks
How much mash does this actually make?
I think what you mean is how much Whiskey will this make.. A 5 gal boiler with a good distillers yeast that can handle the higher alcohol concentrations before being killed by the ethanol content of a strong mash can net you out about 15% of the total volume of the 5 gal. If you use a reflux still you can get about 3 qts of a good 140 to 165 proof whiskey. If you proof that down to 100 or maybe 90 you can get a strong gallon of whiskey or maybe a little more from that run…..
How much mash does this actually make?
I think what you mean is how much Whiskey will this make.. A 5 gal boiler with a good distillers yeast that can handle the higher alcohol concentrations before being killed by the ethanol content of a strong mash can net you out about 15% of the total volume of the 5 gal. If you use a reflux still you can get about 3 qts of a good 140 to 165 proof whiskey. If you proof that down to 100 or maybe 90 you can get a strong gallon of whiskey or maybe a little more from that run…..
What’s the average amount of heart that you can pull off the 5 gallons
What’s the average amount of heart that you can pull off the 5 gallons
I’m not any good at this internet stuff but I did enjoy your Clarion on making moonshine I was wondering is there a way that you could send me a copy of all that I don’t know how to get it off my phone thank you
I’m not any good at this internet stuff but I did enjoy your Clarion on making moonshine I was wondering is there a way that you could send me a copy of all that I don’t know how to get it off my phone thank you
How much drinkable moonshine would this create?
How much drinkable moonshine would this create?
Very informative. Making my first batch tomorrow
Very informative. Making my first batch tomorrow
Can you use cracked corn in place of flaked corn maize?
i also would like to know the answer to this
Can you use cracked corn in place of flaked corn maize?
i also would like to know the answer to this
So I can talk the tail and distill it again. If I distill it again do I add it to the mash after I strain it ?
Dude, Throw the tails OUT ! ! It’s nothing you’re gonna want to drink so why save it and ADD IT TO YOUR NEXT RUN ? ? NO NO H*** NO. Garbage in, Garbage out……No sane reason to keep it and or reuse it ! ! !
So I can talk the tail and distill it again. If I distill it again do I add it to the mash after I strain it ?
Dude, Throw the tails OUT ! ! It’s nothing you’re gonna want to drink so why save it and ADD IT TO YOUR NEXT RUN ? ? NO NO H*** NO. Garbage in, Garbage out……No sane reason to keep it and or reuse it ! ! !
Hello! Great article! Can this recipe be cut in 1/2 for a first timer like me? Thanks!
Hello! Great article! Can this recipe be cut in 1/2 for a first timer like me? Thanks!
How much sugar do I use in this recipe
I’m curious as well. yeast needs sugar but there isn’t any in this recipe
This is an all grain recipe. The sugar comes from the grain during the mash in process.
If you use Amylase enzyme it will convert all those starches to sugar. Read on: While you’re cooking the grain in the pot you’ll notice the mix gets very thick because of all the starches being released. When you’ve finished cooking the grain and it’s cooling add the Amylase and as you stir it in you’ll notice that the mix becomes thin and watery again because the starches are being converted to sugars. That’s when you know it’s worked.. More available sugar means more ethanol. Science baby, makes the world go ’round….
You don’t use any. It comes from the grains during the mash in process.
How much sugar do I use in this recipe
I’m curious as well. yeast needs sugar but there isn’t any in this recipe
This is an all grain recipe. The sugar comes from the grain during the mash in process.
If you use Amylase enzyme it will convert all those starches to sugar. Read on: While you’re cooking the grain in the pot you’ll notice the mix gets very thick because of all the starches being released. When you’ve finished cooking the grain and it’s cooling add the Amylase and as you stir it in you’ll notice that the mix becomes thin and watery again because the starches are being converted to sugars. That’s when you know it’s worked.. More available sugar means more ethanol. Science baby, makes the world go ’round….
You don’t use any. It comes from the grains during the mash in process.
my cleansing run went well. practiced the cuts. this went well too.
I cycled cool water to the condenser it overflowed. the pump should be removing and replacing the water at the same rate right?
I’d like some hints on how to avoid this.
i had to add a second drain line to ensure i can drain faster than the pump fills. drain line isnt under pressure so it needs more volume to achieve the gpm of the pressurized inlet.
my cleansing run went well. practiced the cuts. this went well too.
I cycled cool water to the condenser it overflowed. the pump should be removing and replacing the water at the same rate right?
I’d like some hints on how to avoid this.
i had to add a second drain line to ensure i can drain faster than the pump fills. drain line isnt under pressure so it needs more volume to achieve the gpm of the pressurized inlet.
so keep the corn in the water thru fermentation?
I prefer to ferment “off the grain”, meaning strain before fermenting.
how do you ferment with no grain? By cooking the mash, all the stuff you need to ferment is in the liquid?
I always keep the grain in the mash while fermenting. Why Not? It’s going to give you all the nuances of the grain that you’re using.. BUT removing it during fermentation won’t harm anything.
so keep the corn in the water thru fermentation?
I prefer to ferment “off the grain”, meaning strain before fermenting.
how do you ferment with no grain? By cooking the mash, all the stuff you need to ferment is in the liquid?
I always keep the grain in the mash while fermenting. Why Not? It’s going to give you all the nuances of the grain that you’re using.. BUT removing it during fermentation won’t harm anything.
What is the expected starting SP in the 5 gal mash described in the article
What is the expected starting SP in the 5 gal mash described in the article
A Very heart felt thank you for your help your customer service is the best always ready to do what ever it takes to make sure that you are happy.
A Very heart felt thank you for your help your customer service is the best always ready to do what ever it takes to make sure that you are happy.
Thanks for the knowledge you have passed on here. i am close to start up.
Thanks for the knowledge you have passed on here. i am close to start up.
You adjust the ph after you ferment the mash?
you check the ph and adjust before you add yeast
You adjust the ph after you ferment the mash?
you check the ph and adjust before you add yeast